Taking Ducks Home

A storage tote, old wooden box, stock tank, kiddie pool, or any other enclosed space with a bottom and walls can be used for a brooder, as long as there is enough room for all of the ducklings (with room for them to grow), and is tall enough where they cannot jump out. It is also a good idea to put a mesh or wire removable top to ensure no jumping ducklings. Pine shavings should be used as bedding, about 1-2 inches covering the bottom of the brooder. You can also use puppy pads or paper towel underneath the shavings to help stop leakage from the water. Changing the shavings daily is very important to keep the ducklings from being too dirty and potentially getting sick. A thermometer is also a good idea to have in the brooder to make sure the heat lamp isn't too hot or not hot enough for the ducklings. Be sure to keep heat lamp away from direct contact with plastic or wood as it can start a fire!

To make a brooder light you will need a 250w chick brooder lamp, preferably with an on/off switch and 250w 120v Red Heat bulbs, Both of these items can be found at a feed and grain store or Amazon. Keeping the ducklings indoors in a brooder means you may have to use the heat lamp for longer than if they were kept in a garage or shed outside in the brooder. All of this depends on how hot/cold it is where they are being kept. You can also use heating panels that will lay or stand inside the brooder, although these tend to be more expensive. Keeping these young birds warm is crucial to their survival. Naturally the mother hen will lay on the nest even after the ducklings have hatched to ensure they stay warm. Their body temperatures can't regulate like adult ducks can since they haven’t developed all of their feathers.

Full access to food and water is very important with young ducklings.

For duck food: Using an old food Tupperware for feeding a few ducklings may work, but for many ducklings you should purchase a plastic chick feeder with adjustable legs so that as the ducks get older you can adjust the height of the feeder. You can get one of these a feed and grain store or Amazon. 

For water: Ducks are very messy when it comes to water, so be sure to give them water that is shallow enough where they cannot put their whole body in it, and potentially drown. Ducklings naturally learn how to swim at a very young age but should always be monitored because the risk of drowning is still prevalent. Using a waterer similarly styled to the feeder is perfect for young duckling. You can also put a cookie sheet or pan under the waterer to prevent spillage into the bedding inside the brooder. Be sure to change the feed and water at least every day, and the water every time it is dirty.

During the first few days of being hatched, ducklings should have some probiotic and electrolyte added to their water. Probiotics are used to help their overall wellbeing and allow for good gut bacteria to keep them from getting sick. After the first few days you do not need to continue with the probiotic. Using the electrolyte in early life also helps them maintain proper hydration as well as crucial vitamins and minerals. You can give the ducklings these supplements separately or find an all-in-one type supplement such as Hydro Hen. 

First aid products should be kept on-hand as well in case of emergency, or sick birds. I like keeping bandages, gauze pads, gloves, animal safe antiseptic wound spray, Blu-Kote antifungal spray, animal safe antimicrobial eye drops, neosporin, electrolytes, and clean oral syringes in my first aid kit in case anything happens. A lot of these products can be found at Walmart, pet stores, feed stores, or Amazon.